Bologna 9-10-11 October 2012
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Spotted around the exhibition
COLOURS
The Reve range was very popular, in the nuances of soft pink and nude. Paler, natural
shades followed ranging from white to beige, dark brown and the colour of cowhide. Bright
colours were also on display, especially the blue-green found in the Festival des los
colores range, and pinky red, saffron yellow, indigo blue, peacock blue, purple garnet and
ruby red.
LEATHER
Sought-after quality in the basic classics, well-tanned and nicely finished. Softness with a
plastic, rounded feel.
Thicknesses that are slightly higher than usual were a big success. Interest was shown in
the natural aspects and, for this reason they proved to be shinier, from simple pearl effects
to the brightness of laminates and patent leather.
Cracked and partial laminating, soft yet deep patent leather with little glazed printed
effects, extremely transparent or garment-dyed at the end.
Glitter was used to light up the surfaces.
The python, ostrich and karung skins were also shiny and bright.
Opacity only appeared in the very top end.
There were lots of bleached effects, created tone-on-tone on light-coloured backgrounds,
and especially when used on little prints or brush-off effects.
Perforated patent leather and fancy braids, also in different materials.
The casual look was there but more risqué and aggressive. Rustic, brightly-coloured
craquelè, reworked scrunching, washed using processes that add warmth and modernity
to the materials.
Lots of reversible or double-face leather, in contrasting colours or with a coloured cut,
especially for the splits.
FABRICS/SYNTHETICS
The most popular fabrics were those with a more rustic and natural look, such as cotton,
linen and jute. Natural shades, bleached, with micro- or macro-geometries, but also multicoloured
floral patterns. Natural fabrics with a pearly coating. There was also room for big
stripes, in different colours or materials. Lots of interest was shown in heavy, light-coloured
macramé, often combined with transparent technical fabrics. Mesh, bigger than previous
seasons, often coloured just on the back, also in the brightest colours, even going as far
as neon.
HARDWARE
A season of hardware that has been downsized in the proportions and the shapes have
been simplified so benefitting the search for precious finishes. Gold in all its different
shades, shiny, smooth but also machined, engraved, decorated with enamel or combined
with different materials. New geometrical shapes for chains, including square-shaped links
or irregular meshing.
The twist-lock closures are big, whereas the roller buckles are simple and elaborate, in
contrasting colours or materials.
As always, the press-studs or hooks are rather classic and refined. Zips are simple when it
comes to sizes and more elaborate in both the zip-pulls, which can also be used as
closures, and in the colour of the teeth, the thread or the ribbon. There was a great deal of
interest surrounding the idea of using hardware as a touch of neon colour, with the most
popular being natural colours and more acid-like pastel shades. Studs come in small
pyramid or pyramid-trunk shapes but they are not made out of metal. Strass was used in a
number of new shades, as well as two-tone or iridescent colours. Plaited ribbons, tied
together and striped, plus ethnic patterns also got a look in. Natural, more refined
materials, wood, for instance, with an extremely lightweight finish that enhances the
material, plus shells, horn and corn leaf.
COMPONENTS
Platforms with more calibrated volumes; interest was shown in those that are more slender
and combined with straight, tapered heels. The heels on the shoes become elements that
go up as high as the heel on the foot so joining the upper. Lots of different shapes and
finishes.
Medium-sized heels could be seen, which were more or less spool heels.
Coloured soles and less voluminous wedges, lower than in previous seasons.
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